The 50 Greatest Dishes of the World Read online

  GREATEST

  DISHES OF

  THE WORLD

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  GREATEST

  DISHES OF

  THE WORLD

  JAMES STEEN

  Published in the UK in 2017 by

  Icon Books Ltd, Omnibus Business Centre,

  39–41 North Road, London N7 9DP

  email: [email protected]

  www.iconbooks.com

  Sold in the UK, Europe and Asia

  by Faber & Faber Ltd, Bloomsbury House,

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  London WC1B 3DA or their agents

  Distributed in the UK, Europe and Asia

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  ISBN: 978-178578-173-5

  Text copyright © 2017 James Steen

  The author has asserted his moral rights.

  No part of this book may be reproduced in any form, or by any means, without prior permission in writing from the publisher.

  Images – see individual pictures

  Typeset and designed by Simmons Pugh

  Printed and bound in the UK by Clays Ltd, St Ives plc

  ABOUT THE AUTHOR

  James Steen is an award-winning journalist and author. A sought-after collaborator with some of the most renowned kitchen legends, he has co-authored the autobiographies of Marco Pierre White (The Devil in the Kitchen), Raymond Blanc (A Taste of My Life), Keith Floyd (Stirred But Not Shaken) and Ken Hom (My Stir-Fried Life). He is the author of The Kitchen Magpie, and teamed up with Blanc to write Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons: The Story of a Modern Classic and Kitchen Secrets, and with White to produce Marco Made Easy and White Heat 25. During his extensive career in Fleet Street he edited Punch magazine. Alongside writing books, he is a contributing editor of Waitrose Food magazine. From his home in Wandsworth, South-west London, Steen runs classes for locals in his Loxley Cookery School.

  DEDICATION

  This book is for Louise.

  DISCLAIMER

  The recipes and descriptions given are for general guidance only, and should not be used as a substitute for a proper recipe book. Neither the author nor the publisher shall be liable or responsible for any adverse effect allegedly arising from any information contained in this book.

  CONTENTS

  INTRODUCTION

  THE 50 GREATEST DISHES OF THE WORLD

  For Starters

  Ants

  Smørrebrød

  Pho

  Caviar

  Ramen

  Sushi

  Dim Sum

  Chicken Soup

  Fish and Shellfish

  Fish and Chips

  Paella

  Hákarl

  Bouillabaisse

  Ceviche

  Lobsters Thermidor and Newberg

  Stargazy Pie

  Ika-Sōmen

  Pad Thai

  Gumbo

  Meat and Poultry

  The Burger

  Mahberawi

  Shepherd’s Pie

  Bak-Kut-The

  The Fry-Up

  Chairo

  Spaghetti (or Spaghettoni) alla Carbonara

  Tagine

  Roast Beef, Yorkshire Pudding and Horseradish

  Jerk Pork

  Green Curry

  Beef Wellington

  Birds

  Peking Duck

  Chicken Kiev

  Coq au Vin

  Mole Poblano

  Chicken Curry

  Roasted Woodcock

  Vegetarian

  Gazpacho

  Käsknöpfle

  Asparagus, Poached Egg, Hollandaise Sauce

  Pizza

  For Afters

  Ice Cream Sundae

  Trifle

  Black Forest Gâteau

  Apple Pie

  Dobos Torta

  Crème Brûlée

  Cheesecake

  Baklava and Turkish Coffee

  Pavlova

  ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

  INTRODUCTION: BEFORE YOU BEGIN

  On a gloriously warm day in autumn 2016, I found myself in Daunt Books, the magnificent, high-ceilinged shop in Marylebone High Street, West London. For once, I was there not to browse the tall shelves and take in the woody scent of new books, but to appear on a stage before an audience and chat with the celebrated chef, Ken Hom, as I had recently collaborated on his autobiography. During the question and answer session, a lady asked Ken: ‘What do you think of fusion?’

  ‘Fusion,’ he said, with the usual air of Zen about him, ‘is fine, as long as it doesn’t become confusion.’ That single moment remains a vivid memory because, by then, I was deeply immersed in the writing and compilation of the book that you are now holding. Through incessant reading and midnight-oil-burning research, I had become considerably aware – inadvertently – of the true significance of culinary fusion; of how one country’s cuisine meets that of another, and results in a new dish.

  Fusion may be a comparatively modern term in gastronomy but, as you will see in the pages that follow, for thousands of years it has shaped the food we eat. When the people of one place embrace the people of another, there are marriages, unity and collaboration. Ideas are swapped. New dishes and tastes also come about.

  The fusion theme runs through this book, although it was not intentional: I did not set out to write a book about fusion, even if the examples frequently crop up as you read.

  Around the time of the chat at Daunt Books, the popular TV chef Jamie Oliver had been castigated by the Spanish because he dared to add chorizo to his paella. ‘That’s not authentic’, screamed his critics. Who was right? The Spanish, or Jamie? As you will see from my entry on paella, the dish may be Spanish, but it would not exist were it not for fusion, admittedly introduced by invaders.

  Paella takes its name from the ancient Roman patella – think of a paella pan, and that is what the patella looked like. The rice was introduced to Spain by the Moors, as was saffron. And the Arabs cannot claim ownership of the rice because that came to them from China and India. Red (bell) peppers are common in paella, but not without the help of the tribes of Aztecs in Central and South America. The peoples of many nations have added a bit of this and a bit of that to paella. So if Jamie Oliver wants to put chorizo in his one, then it is probably allowable.

  Paella is not alone;
there are plenty more cases. Each and every country, it seems, has a national dish which is influenced by, or has its roots in, another nation.

  The ramen of Japan owes so much to the creation of noodles in China, as do you should you be eating noodles this evening. The fish of fish and chips, that classic Great British dish, would not be around were it not for the Jewish immigrants who showed the British how to deep-fry fish in batter. Oh, and it was the Belgians who gave us chips (although the fish and chips were united and first served together in London). The apple pie and the hamburger are surely American-born celebrations, but the first is British and the second is made from beef, not ham, and derives from Hamburg. Would Vietnam have pho, its beefy soup, were it not for the French, lovers of pot-au-feu, who occupied their country? Doubtful.

  In the course of writing this book, I have made fascinating discoveries. Like most people, I believed that pavlova, that more-ish cake of whipped cream and fruit in a large meringue nest, was invented as a celebratory dessert in New Zealand (or Australia) in the late 1920s when ballerina, Anna Pavlova, toured the Antipodes. This book tells a different story. From the evidence amassed, there is no doubt that a grander version of the cake was being eaten in the Austro-Hungarian Empire of the 1800s, and a pavlova replica was being served in Britain in the late 1800s, when Ms Pavlova was only just entering this world and the grand allegro was a distant leap away.

  Beef Wellington has also proved to have had an interesting journey. It may well take its name from the Duke of Wellington but, I have discovered, it seems more likely to have been named by a French chef cooking for the elite of Chicago. He is the one, rather than a British cook, who provided the first recipe. And – improbable though it may sound – was the dish perhaps named Wellington after a Chicago street or avenue? Unfortunately the duke cannot, as has been suggested, have considered this to be his favourite dish, because it had yet to be eaten in Britain by the time he marched heavenwards.

  Many of the dishes have been puzzles, but I have tried to establish where each piece fits, and when. Gazpacho, for instance, is a cold tomato soup from Spain … but it was being made before tomatoes reached Spain. Bouillabaisse is a soupy fish stew from Provence … but there are recipes which contain no fish. The origins of spaghetti alla carbonara remain a mystery, so who is to say what is and is not an authentic carbonara?

  Sometimes the pieces of the puzzle have been lost over time, but I have done my utmost to dig tirelessly, delve deep and explore so that I could present an accurate portrait, a fair biography, of each dish. Food historians do not have all the answers. Where there are questions remaining, I have listed them so that you, too, can have fun and join in the guessing game.

  This is not a cookery book, so please do not expect to unearth numerous recipes. Easy recipes, short on words, have been included, as well as historical gems from the dusty but constantly compelling cookery books of centuries past. If, like me, you thoroughly relish such books – partly because they give an entertaining glimpse into the kitchens of the past and what our ancestors ate – then I believe, and sincerely hope, that you will savour this one. And now it is time to put on the oven. Again.

  THE 50 GREATEST DISHES OF THE WORLD

  FOR STARTERS

  ANTS

  Dried first in an oven, the insects can be eaten as a popcorn-style snack, used in meat sauces, or propped up on fresh pineapple chunks to make an unusual dessert in Brazil.

  An ant a day, or maybe a handful, is good for you. The ant has long been regarded as medicine, as well as a food. In China, the belief is that what you eat will enable you to inherit the characteristics of the food. If you eat a tiger’s penis, for instance, you will be virile. A deer’s penis will do, if a tiger is not available. The ant is strong, sexually vigorous and never seems to tire with age. Therefore, eating ants will instil these traits in the consumer.

  The Compendium of Materia Medica (known to the Chinese as Ben Cao Gang Mu or Pen-ts’ao Kang-mu) is an impressive masterpiece of some 4,400 pages. It includes remedies and pharmaceutical studies, and was compiled by Li Shizen during the Ming Dynasty in the 16th century. He studied, for instance, the data of 1,094 herbs. You and I might not put ants in the same food genre as parsley, chervil, basil and dill, but Shizen believed they deserved to be regarded as a herb.

  Black ants, wrote Shizen, improve our qi, or life energy. They make skin beautiful, postpone ageing and restore kidney energy. The millions of people who have followed the advice of the Compendium include Emperor Qianlong, who died in 1799 at the age of 87. He liked to eat black ants, particularly for their anti-ageing properties. With a handful of pine nuts, they were speedily stir-fried in the emperor’s wok. The silk-worm chrysalis was another favourite.

  Ants were often ground to a paste and eaten with greens. They were eaten by the original natives of Australia, and they are a delicacy in Central and South America, where the earliest tribes harvested the insects for consumption.

  Ants have a citrus taste, bitter and acidic; the ant produces an acid to stop predators eating it (the acid is not always successful) and so that is what our palates pick up on. However, ant connoisseurs will be quick to point out that ants are no different to other creatures, in that their taste is affected by the environment in which they have lived, and the diet on which they have survived.

  Think of them as having their own terroir, similar to wine, tea, coffee and cocoa. Ants from China will taste differently to ants from Thailand, and not all ants in China will taste the same. Some ants are said to be fatty. Large ants are considered to be tastier than small ants, and so it follows that they are more expensive. Of course, you save money by harvesting ants at home, in an ant hill or farming them in a fish tank (minus the water). Once they are collected in a Tupperware box, the box can then be popped into the freezer, dispatching the insects to a chilly demise. Gather the ant bodies and then bake them in the oven on a low heat of about 100˚C.

  *

  Although ants have been eaten for centuries, this ingredient reached haute cuisine status in 2013, when Alex Atala put them on his menu at D.O.M. in São Paulo. The restaurant is frequently ranked in the top ten of the World’s Best Restaurants. As one of his desserts, Atala served a dried leaf-cutter ant. Not on its own, but perched on a single cube of fresh pineapple. Simple yet quite beautiful, with an intelligent harmony on the palate while still comprising the essential sweet-sour elements. The dish was witty and fun. The world (the culinary world, that is) took notice.

  Atala was not submitting us to a PR stunt. He had discovered the edible joys of ants while travelling in the Amazon. An old lady had offered him a bowl; he tasted and was smitten. ‘I found the taste amazing’, he recalled. He identified flavours of cardamom, lemongrass and ginger. He was inspired by this new (to him) ingredient. Other ant dishes on his menu have included coconut meringue, topped with an Amazonian ant. São Paulo is the place to go for intriguing ant dishes. At Meats, a burger restaurant in the same city, they serve burgers with vinaigrette of ants.

  In Colombia, ants are known affectionately as hormigas culonas – literally, big-bottomed ants. They are soaked in a brine before being fried and eaten, usually with a sprinkle of salt. A bit like a tub of popcorn or nuts. They are believed to be an aphrodisiac and are given as a gift at Colombian weddings. Meanwhile, in the mountains of the Santander province, where ants are abundant and cherished, the chefs in the kitchen of the Color de Hormiga (Colour of Ants) rustle up a hearty, protein-rich dish: fillet steak is seared on the grill, covered in ant sauce, and then garnished with dried – you guessed right – ants.

  Ants are everywhere. In New York’s East Village, for instance, The Black Ant restaurant is a Mexican eatery which serves black ant guacamole, made with mango, avocado, pomegranate, coriander and chicatana salt (made from crushed ants). If you don’t fancy that, there are other insects on the menu: Croquetas de Chapulin are deep-fried parcels of grasshoppers, yucca and manchego, accompanied by grasshopper salsa. With a side order of cactus f
ries? Mexicans, incidentally, also relish their street food of fried agave grubs, with palm.

  *

  Turning now to the health benefits. The National Geographic states that a 100 gram serving of red ants provides about 14 grams of protein, which is one gram more than a boiled egg. The same serving of red ants contains 5.7 milligrams of iron, which is 71 per cent of the required daily amount for a man, and about one-third required by a woman. Ants are also a good source of calcium.

  The ant is said to be an antiscorbutic: it can prevent scurvy, but only when eaten. The carpenter ant takes its name from the lumberjacks of New England who ate the insects to ward off the illness. Edwin Way Teale, in his Pulitzer Prize-winner Wandering Through Winter, mentions that in the early 1900s, Americans could still buy vials of ants as ‘a winter’s end tonic’.

  None of this would have surprised a certain Dr Shreiber, who in Russia in the 1830s, was chief physician at the Brestlitoffski military hospital. What an intriguing character. Dr Shreiber’s hospital was surrounded by forest which was home to many ant hills and, The London Medical Gazette of June, 1840, reported, ‘the thought struck him of drawing some advantage from them for his patients’.

  In time, the doctor came up with a treatment for paralysis, although it did not involve eating the insects:

  The ants are to be taken directly from their hill and put in a bag; and this bag is to be tied over the limb in such a manner that the ants cannot escape (but obtain access to the skin). Sometime after their application to the limb, the patient begins to feel the running and biting of the ants, by which they gradually excite a kind of electrical twitches, and a feeling of warmth, which gradually extends over the whole body.

  This treatment went on for two or three days. The doctor’s results were so successful – 46 patients cured over three years – ‘that he was encouraged to use the same remedy for rheumatism and gout’. He also used ants to cure a case of elephantiasis; severe swelling of a limb.

  The same article in the Gazette reveals that in ‘Little Russia’, the Cossack state, ‘they employ a home-made spirit of ants called muroschkowka, to prepare a punch which is used in many varieties of colds, with very great advantage’.